The book you now hold in your hands—and, in the case of Mets fans, will soon send windmilling across the room—takes its title from a pilgrimage to the northernmost golf course in the world. It might just as well have been called Around the World in a Middle Seat, representing as it does more than a decade of travel to exceedingly strange places, among them Uummannaq, Greenland; Denpasar, Indonesia; and Flushing, Queens.
Years ago, marooned in a middle seat, I watched in horror as the man on the aisle, shod in flip-flops, trimmed his toenails. The crescent moon of each clipping rocketed in a random trajectory across the cabin. I returned my eyes to the laptop on my tray table, as if this weren't really happening, and continued to tap out a story for Sports Illustrated while—all about me—toenails fell like ticker tape.
But then I'm an expert at averting my gaze, at ignoring the elephant in the room. Or, rather, the Lion or Tiger or Bear in the room, casually holding court at his locker, butt-naked before a throng of reporters and TV cameras. It's customary to tell nervous public speakers to imagine everyone in the audience is clad only in his underwear. Athletes are oddly at ease with the opposite. They stand stark naked while addressing an audience of fully clothed men and women. Sportswriting is the rare profession in which you are, by virtue of being dressed, overdressed.
I once spoke to—and made rigorous eye contact with—Mark Messier while the hockey great wore black wingtips, black dress socks and … nothing else. (He evidently wanted to keep his feet dry on the mildewed floor of a Minnesota locker room.)
In baseball they call this "business casual." My colleague Jack McCallum spent an hour interviewing Whitey Herzog, then the manager of the St. Louis Cardinals, while the latter was seated at his desk in Busch Stadium. It was only when Herzog—resplendent in a red turtleneck and classic Cardinal home jersey—rose from his chair to retrieve a book from a shelf behind him that McCallum noticed, while pretending not to, that Whitey was, and had been for the last hour, naked from the waist down.
Another colleague, Jeff Pearlman, had a memorable conversation with baseball manager Lou Piniella while the latter stood multitasking at a clubhouse urinal—simultaneously taking a leak, smoking a cigarette, and eating a hoagie. Sweet Lou did all of these things while thoughtfully entertaining questions from Pearlman, who made believe that it was not remarkable in the least to take dictation from a Vishnu-armed baseball skipper who was, at that very moment, taking a whiz and ingesting a hero and smoking like a tire fire while soberly expounding on manifold subjects.
On one of my earliest assignments for Sports Illustrated, Doug Rader—then the manager of the California Angels—threw his uniform pants at me in anger. It happened in the visitors' clubhouse at Fenway Park, and I played it off as a perfectly pedestrian occurrence, getting trouser-whipped by a middle-aged man in the middle of one's workday. As I would soon discover, it wasn't unusual, not in the least.
Chuck Nevius of the San Francisco Chronicle was once following Rader around a clubhouse, taking notes as the manager ranted, when the skipper threw his uniform pants into the air to punctuate a point. They landed on Nevius's head. The writer dared not remove them, or even to acknowledge their presence, the way you pretend not to notice when someone, in conversation, accidentally expels a fleck of spittle onto your shirt. Rather, the good reporter nods gravely—his head turbaned in another man's pants; his face a death mask of indifference—and continues to take notes.
All of which is to say that there are more dignified occupations than mine, and I include the man in "'Ring Tossed" who shovels horseshit for a living outside Mad King Ludwig's castle in Bavaria. (Something tells me we're in the same union.) Yet I cannot conceive of a job that's more diverting than mine, if you can call eating your way around America's baseball parks or riding a dozen roller coasters in a day a job. (Mercifully, these assignments were not consecutive.)
Incidentally, you can call gorging on hot dogs a job, and many do, as the world champions of competitive eating make clear in "The Right Stuffing." This essay, and most of the other pieces in this collection, are departures from the ballpark, work-release from the locker room. Any occupational nudity in them is mine and can be explained by the alarming instances of copious drinking in these pages—in London darts pubs, on Irish golf courses, in Japanese hostess bars, on Greenlandic landing strips, on Swedish ski slopes, in the Wrigley Field bleachers, on the Côte d'Azur during soccer's World Cup, and in Springfield, Massachusetts, immediately after my wedding to Rebecca Lobo, which was the most fun I've ever had in rented shoes without actually bowling.
And that is the prevailing theme of this collection: fun, not bowling. This book is meant to be part joy ride, part thrill ride—on golf cart, on dogsled, on roller coaster, in race car, in helicopter, on airliner, in bullet train, on subway, on Tube, on Metro, and on Dramamine, adrift in a canoe on the Indian Ocean. If the phrase in the subtitle—"extreme recreation"—sounds oxymoronical, so should "working press." This isn't, after all, a body of work. It's a body of play.
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